Know before you bring one home
Meet the Jenday Conure.
A spectacularly coloured, deeply affectionate bird with one honest deal-breaker: the volume. Everything else about a jenday is easy. The noise decides whether you can keep one.
Commonly confused
Jenday or sun conure?
These two are routinely mistaken for each other, and sometimes sold as one another. One field mark separates them reliably: look at the back.
Jenday conure
Green back, mantle and wings, with blue in the flight feathers and a green tail. Yellow head and neck, orange-red breast and belly. Aratinga jandaya.
Sun conure
Golden-yellow back and shoulders — no green on the shoulders at all, with green confined to the wings. Aratinga solstitialis.
Why it matters: the two species are priced differently and mix-ups are common and often innocent. Ask the seller to show you the bird’s back, and remember that young birds of both species are duller and greener — a juvenile jenday still has green wings and shoulders, while a juvenile sun conure is mottled green and yellow across them.
Daily life
Personality, housing & routine.
A safe enclosure is the starting point, not the bird’s entire world.
Personality
Playful, cuddly, comedic and intensely social. Jendays bond hard, often to one person, and can become jealous and nippy toward everyone else without deliberate socialisation from the start.
Cage size & type
Minimum 90 × 75 × 110 cm, larger preferred. Bar spacing 15–20 mm, with horizontal bars for climbing.
Perches, toys & setup
Natural branch perches (15–25 mm), shreddable toys, foraging puzzles, a bathing dish and daily destructible wood. Avoid fabric huts and loose-thread rope toys.
Time & social needs
3–4 hours out of the cage daily with company. An ignored jenday screams, and the screaming is very hard to live with.
Exercise & enrichment
Foraging toys, shreddable materials, puzzle feeders and trick training. Reward quiet; never reward a scream with attention, even negative attention.
Noise & neighbours
This is the deciding factor. Aratinga conures produce a sharp, screeching contact call that is physically uncomfortable at close range and clearly audible several houses away. It is normal species behaviour, not a training failure, and it will not be trained out. Unsuitable for flats, townhouses, shared walls or noise-restricted estates.
Sleep
Provide 10–12 hours of quiet, uninterrupted darkness on a predictable schedule. Sleep-deprived parrots become irritable, scream more and are more likely to pluck.
Household safety
PTFE and non-stick fumes — pans, air fryers, self-cleaning ovens, some heaters and hair dryers — kill birds within minutes and are the most common preventable household death. Never house a bird in or near the kitchen. Also keep away from scented candles, incense, air fresheners, aerosols, cleaning sprays, pesticides, cigarette and vape smoke, ceiling fans, open water, hot pots, open windows and doors, electrical cables, toxic houseplants, and zinc or lead sources such as galvanised wire, costume jewellery and old paint. A cat scratch or bite is a medical emergency — cat saliva carries Pasteurella, which is usually fatal without immediate antibiotics.
Behaviour & warning signs
Expect one-person bonding and jealous nipping at other family members — counter it by having everyone hand-feed treats and do short training sessions from day one. Tail-fanning, pinned eyes and a stiff forward lean precede a bite.
Important: Use positive reinforcement only. Never hit, shout at, squirt, drop or “beak-flick” a bird for biting or vocalising — punishment reliably makes both worse. Parrots are prey animals: they hide illness and they bite because a warning signal was missed, not out of spite. Learn your bird’s body language and the biting mostly stops.
Nutrition
Build health in the bowl.
A seed-only diet is the most common cause of premature death in pet parrots. Every species below needs a formulated base, daily fresh vegetables and measured portions — change any diet gradually, with an avian vet’s guidance.
What to feed
- A complete pellet as the foundation, converted gradually.
- Fresh vegetables and leafy greens daily, with orange and dark green vegetables for vitamin A.
- Small measured portions of fruit — jendays will gorge on it and ignore everything else.
- Cooked legumes and whole grains.
- Seeds and nut pieces strictly as training rewards.
- A cuttlebone and clean fresh water daily.
What NOT to feed
NEVER SHARE FOOD FROM YOUR MOUTH OR PLATE
- Avocado — every part of the plant, including guacamole.
- Chocolate and cocoa.
- Caffeine, alcohol and xylitol (sugar-free sweetener).
- Onion, garlic, chives and leeks.
- Fruit pips and stones: apple, pear, cherry, apricot, peach and plum.
- Raw or dried beans — all legumes must be thoroughly cooked.
- Rhubarb leaves.
- Salty, sugary, fried or processed human food.
- Dairy in more than a trace — birds cannot digest lactose.
- Mouldy or fermenting food, including fruit left in the bowl.
- Anything from your mouth, plate or fork — human saliva carries bacteria that kill birds.
- Grit. Parrots husk their own seed and grit can cause fatal impaction.
- Human medicines or supplements unless prescribed by an avian vet.
Jenday Conure-specific: Chop and mix everything finely so the bird cannot pick out only the fruit and seed. Vitamin A deficiency is common in conures on poor diets and shows up as recurring respiratory and sinus problems. Portions, hygiene and change: Measure food rather than filling a bowl to the brim, and weigh your bird weekly on a gram scale — appetite is a poor guide, weight is not. Remove fresh food after two to three hours in warm weather; bacteria in a warm bowl cause more illness than most owners realise. Wash bowls daily in hot soapy water. Change any diet gradually over several weeks under an avian vet’s guidance — a bird that stops eating during a rushed pellet conversion can die in 48 hours.
Health & veterinary care
Birds hide illness. Act early.
Watch for feather picking, obesity, proventricular dilatation disease, vitamin A deficiency and, rarely, conure bleeding syndrome.
Recommended specialist
Bryanston Avian, Exotic & Small Animals Clinic
99 Grosvenor Road, Bryanston, Johannesburg
011 706 1381 · WhatsApp 061 533 9950
info@baesac.co.za · baesac.co.za
Arrange an avian-vet examination within the first week after purchase, and weigh your bird weekly on a gram scale. Not every vet treats birds — find your nearest avian-experienced practice before you need one, and save the number.
Seek avian-vet help urgently for:
- Difficulty or open-mouth breathing
- Pronounced tail bobbing at rest
- Fluffed, quiet and sitting on the cage floor
- Collapse or severe weakness
- Bleeding that does not stop, including a broken blood feather
- Seizures or loss of balance
- Repeated vomiting or regurgitation
- Not eating, or noticeable weight loss
- Straining, a swollen abdomen, or a hen unable to pass an egg
- Sudden major change in droppings
- Any contact with a cat or dog, even a minor scratch
- Suspected poisoning, fumes or trauma
- Recurrent sneezing, nasal discharge or swollen eyes — often vitamin A related
Before you buy
Ask the seller for the hatch date, the closed ring number, a DNA sex certificate and any disease screening already done. A seller who cannot answer those questions, or who will not let you watch the bird eat, is a seller to walk away from. Ask what the bird is currently eating, so you can keep it stable for the first fortnight.
Your first month
Book a wellness examination in the first week, not just when something looks wrong. Quarantine a new bird for 30–45 days away from any birds you already keep, ideally in separate air space. Recommended screening: psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), psittacosis (Chlamydia psittaci), polyomavirus and avian bornavirus.
Ongoing & human health
Annual check-ups, moving to twice yearly for larger species over ten. Wing clipping is not routine care — discuss it first, because flight builds fitness, balance and confidence. Psittacosis passes to people as a flu-like illness or pneumonia: if you develop unexplained respiratory symptoms, tell your doctor you keep birds.
Is this your bird?
Who this species suits.
Being honest about this before you buy is the kindest thing you can do for a parrot.
First-time owners
Possible for the right person — jendays are easy birds to care for. The noise, not the care, is what makes or breaks it.
Experienced owners
A rewarding, affectionate companion in a home that can absorb the volume.
Families & children
Good with families in detached homes, for children roughly eight and up. Everyone must handle the bird regularly or it will pick one person and resent the rest.
Whatever your experience: buy from a seller who lets you meet the bird, answers questions about diet and hatch date, and takes the bird back if things go wrong. Ask about adoption too — rescues and sanctuaries are full of the species on this list, and an adult bird’s temperament is already known.
The commitment
Can you provide a good life?
“A happy bird isn’t just loved — it is understood, fed properly, kept safe and cared for every single day.”
If several answers are “No”, this is not the right bird for you — and walking away is a good outcome, not a failure.
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